Gibney Liberty or Gibney Lunch

Ask not what the dumpling can do for you, but what you can do for the dumpling
Tue May 26

25 Henry Street (yet another dumpling house)

In the post one below this one (Sweet Spring Restaurant) I mentioned that we came across another dumpling house and I wrote “more on that later”. Well, this is that “later”. This place had a name, but it was written in Chinese so I had a hard time telling what it was called. The address was 25 Henry street, so I was confused when we happened across it instead of Sweet Spring (25 Catherine and Henry). It was yet another small place, indistinct from anything else on the block, or other dumpling houses. We ordered the typical five for a dollar dumplings (pork and chive) and the fried pork buns (also typical four for a dollar).

I thought we were done ordering, but I saw an enormous jar of kimchi and just had to get some. I got one order for a dollar and the woman behind the counter took a pair of tongs and filled my plate with more kimchi than a normal human should eat. The “plates” were just tops to different containers (all belonged to one type of container, think take-out from a Thai restaurant).

The dumplings were ordinary, nothing special about them, same goes for the fried pork buns. The kimchi however was delicious. It looked spicy, smelled spicy, yet when I ate it, was surprisingly not so…until about thirty seconds later when my mouth erupted with pain. I managed to deal with the pain by eating more dumplings. I even put some of the kimchi inside of the dumpling, which added a much needed punch to an otherwise lifeless dumpling.

Bottom line: there are better dumpling places, and probably better places to get kimchi, but for a dollar the kimchi is quite a bargain. You can just disregard everything else though. (3/5 chopsticks)

the jar that the kimchi was in was about twice or three times the size of a regular pickle jar, it looked something like this.

the jar that the kimchi was in was about twice or three times the size of a regular pickle jar, it looked something like this.

The Dumpling

The dumpling. The perfect being. So simple, yet so complex. The ultimate combination of finely mashed meat and scallions. The encasement: a sweet dough, but melding flawlessly with the filling inside. The skin is the make or break of the dumpling, and in this sense it is the most complex thing to make. Too thick, and it is gummy and the filling is overwhelmed with dough. Too thin and you might as well be eating a meatball. The middle ground between too thick and too thin is where the magic lies. The battle for middle-earth rages on.

Cooking them is an even tougher task. Extract them from the pan too soon, and you are left with a soggy ball of mush, not to mention the raw meat you will be consuming (which in this day and age is one of the biggest sins you can commit, oh the horror of eating something raw!) Leave them in the pan for too long and you are left with a crispy wonton, not unlike the wonton strips you put into your sludgy hot and sour soup (a guilty pleasure for many).

This is just the beginning; don’t even attempt the proper way to flip them. But indulge yourself: brown two sides and leave one side white and plain, creating a unique textural experience. Soft and hard, crunchy and fluffy, all at the same time.

The eating of these chubby gods is simple. Bite off one end, chew, let cool, dip in sauce, eat rest in one bite. Every time you eat one, you chance third degree burns, but that is the fun in it. It is a risk you can take because the payoff is, simply put, divine.

Sweet Spring Restaurant (4th dumpling house)

I was told by a friend about a place called Sweet Spring Restaurant (25 Catherine and Henry), and heard it was supposedly better than Mosco’s dumplings, so of course I had to try it. Apparently it is quite a walk from the Canal street station, but that was ok as it built up my appetite. I went with my friend Nathan and while we were looking for Sweet Spring Restaurant, we stumbled upon yet another dumpling house, but more on that later.

Sweet Spring was right on the corner and since I was looking for a small place, I had overlooked the rather large restaurant right in front of me. When we walked in, it was mostly a large kitchen in the back and a few tables in the front. Clearly the focus of the meal was the food (as it should be) instead of the atmosphere. The menu is posted prominently in the front window (blown up to fill most of the window) and being the ignorant fools that we are, failed to see that there were little menus printed out at the counter. This male-refrigerator-blindness* led to us ordering one thing at a time while walking back and forth from inside to outside (counter to street). Quite simply, we looked like idiots. That said we managed to (albeit brokenly) order our food, given that we only ordered two things: fried pork and chive (the typical five for a dollar) and a bean sprout bun (seventy-five cents). The dumplings were good, I’m not sure I would say better than Mosco, but certainly on par with them. The highlight of the visit was the bean sprout bun. It was a steamed bun filled with cooked yet crunchy bean sprouts and some sort of mustard green, which gave it quite a pleasant bite (spicy bite, not crunchy bite).

Bottom line: a menu as diverse as Vanessa’s Dumpling House, cheaper and in my mind better. The bean sprout bun was a nice surprise, delicate and much better plain than dipped in a combination of hot sauce, soy sauce and vinegar.(4/5 chopsticks)

*when a male opens a refrigerator looking for something and fails to see it even though it is right in front of them. This can also be passed to other places in the house, such as cabinets or desks.

this is what all the pork fried buns looked like, sans the scallions and sesame seeds on top. in addition, the bean sprout bun was like this but a little bit bigger

this is what all the pork fried buns looked like, sans the scallions and sesame seeds on top. in addition, the bean sprout bun was like this but a little bit bigger

Mon May 25

3 Dumpling houses

After having visited two mediocre larger restaurants I decided to shift my attention to the small dumpling houses. They are cheap and generally serve high quality dumplings, which bettered my odds for getting a good meal.

The first small dumpling house that I went to was a place on Mosco St. who’s only English on the sign was “Fried Dumpling”. It is a tiny place, roughly the size of two large walk-in closets. There are four or five tall stools at a metal counter opposite the “kitchen”. The kitchen is a counter-length cutting board with lots of dough and bowls of dumpling fillings. They serve two things: fried pork dumplings and fried pork buns. Both are delicious, and for $1 you can get five dumplings or four pork buns. Little English is spoken and ordering is mostly holding up fingers depicting how many orders you want. The dumplings are as fresh as they come, right out of the pan and onto a styrofoam plate, throw some hot sauce and black vinegar on top, and you’re ready to eat. The dumplings themselves are almost perfect. They have a thin skin (in my mind a key factor) and they are delicious when served scalding hot. For $5 you can get twenty-five dumplings, almost unheard of in a city where a Central Park cart-hot dog is sometimes $2. Bottom line: go here, spend little money, eat amazing dumplings and go home happy.  (4/5 chopsticks)

The second place I visited was a place called Prosperity Dumplings (46 Eldridge). It was narrower than Mosco street dumpling house, with a few tall stools and a counter out in front and the kitchen tucked away behind the ordering counter. The prices were the same (five for a dollar) but there was more variety such as congee, fried sesame pancake and different soups. I got two orders of the regular pork and chive, one order of fried pork buns and one chive and egg pancake. Stay away from the latter. It was simply a piece of thick bread with some chives and sesame seeds on top, nothing interesting or tasty. The dumplings were even better than Mosco’s dumplings. They had more filling, thinner wrappers and had an all around better flavor. The pork buns were far superior to any fried pork buns that I’ve had. They were crisp on the bottom yet fluffy and sweet on the top. They were just man tao* with a pork filling.

Bottom line: All you want to do after the first bite is keep eating, and at the prices that they have, you can easily eat fifteen or so without feeling squeezed for cash. (5/5 chopsticks)

My third stop was Vanessa’s Dumpling House (118 Eldridge). Many people have written about it and drooled over it because of its staple dishes (dumplings, duh) and its variety (sandwiches filled with different meats). I went with several other people so I had the opportunity to order everything I wanted and then some. We settled on three orders of chive and pork, two orders of spicy wontons, two orders of pork fried buns and one order of spicy and sour cucumber. I also got a taro bubble tea to drink which tasted like a combination of makeup and coffee (for $3, not worth it at all). The total came to a whopping $21.50, although it was for four people. The chive and pork were great, not as good as Prosperity, but still they were gone within five minutes. The spicy wontons were pork and shrimp, I was a little put off by the shrimp as I was not expecting a fishy taste, but they were delicate and in a fiery sauce.  The pork buns did not hold a candle to the ones I had devoured earlier at Prosperity, but were not bad, and were also gone within five minutes. The spicy and sour cucumber was a refreshing contrast to our dumpling-heavy diet. It could have been spicier, but a little dash of hot sauce would take care of that problem.

Bottom line: it is more expensive than other places, meaning four for a dollar instead of five, but it does have more variety, something that may appeal to those who may not want just dumplings. (4/5 chopsticks)

*(pronounced man toe, it is a simple steamed bun, usually slightly sweet)

Food Sing (Hand pulled noodles)

My third installment of my culinary adventures landed me in a hand pulled noodle joint on 2 East Broadway (near Bowery), called Food Sing (pronounced food shing). I go to this place every New Year’s day (Chinese New Year) and it has some of the best noodles I have ever had. It is a small place, lots of light and lots of tables packed with mostly Chinese people. It is incredibly informal, paper napkins, wooden chopsticks, and a blackboard with the menu of the day (not that it changes from day to day).

Upon entering the restaurant, I was immediately greeted by the sounds of loud slurping and bowls clattering. The smell the wafted through the air was largely that of the incredibly aromatic broth. A waitress ran up and ushered my dad and I to a small table in the back of the room. She threw two menus in our hands and left in a very rushed manner. It was 2:45 and completely packed, which led me to believe that it had been incredibly crowded for at least a couple hours. The waitress came back thirty seconds later and asked for our order. My dad ordered the hand pulled noodles with pork chop. I wandered outside of my comfort zone and ordered the tripe (stomach lining). I ordered a coke, which she brought immediately and upon asking for cups, she pointed to the sauce containers next to us and suggested we use those.

Our noodle soups came and we greedily slurped them down. Our meal was made better by the fact that two old Chinese women were sitting opposite us at our incredibly small table. They proceeded to tear through their meal, spitting out bits of bone and cartilage straight onto the table (ironically enough a young couple took the place of the women and did the exact same thing.)

The soup was wonderful. The immediate wave of scent from the broth yielded a strong clove smell. However, while eating it, I got hints of star anise and fish sauce, coupled with the saltiness of the broth (a good salty). My tripe was chewy and feathery. Need more be said? It would not have been so bad if the texture hadn’t been what it was. It was not my favorite at all and I ended up covering most of it with a napkin at the end of the meal. The pork chop my dad ordered was incredible; tender, melt in your mouth, porky-goodness. The noodles themselves were amazing. They were sweet with a nice chewy texture (unlike the rubber band-like tripe) and had enormous flavor in each bite.

For around $10 we got two large bowls of delicious noodles. It’s hard to beat that kind of price for that amount of flavor and quantity. One thing’s for sure, they don’t noodle around at Food Sing.

Food Sing Rating: 4/5 chopsticks

Food Sing Rating: 4/5 chopsticks

Pho So 1

I decided to take a break from Chinese food (even though I had only been to one restaurant) and delve into the Vietnamese side of Chinatown. I, along with my friend Elliot, ended up at a place called Pho So 1 on 11 Mott St (between Chatham Square and Mosco st). It was a relatively easy ride on the subway and was only a few blocks away from Nice Green Bo. Usually I protest and forbid people (including myself) from entering restaurants that have pictures of the food on the walls, and this time I should have followed my instincts.

After walking down a flight of stairs, we arrived at Pho So 1. We were given a menu that looked like it had everything. Of course the pho bo (beef pho) was a must, but everything else was fair game. We decided to order pork bun (cold noodles with barbequed pork), salt and pepper frog legs, papaya salad with beef jerky, cha gio (Vietnamese spring rolls) and an avocado smoothie for myself.

Our order arrived and we were immediately overwhelmed by the amount of food that was brought to our table. The cha gio were decent, they were made better when eaten the traditional way: wrapped in a lettuce leaf with some mint and dipped in the tangy nuoc cham* (pronounced nook-mam). The bun was, in my opinion, the best dish we got. The bbq pork was charred and delicious, cut into thin strips which blended perfectly with the cold rice noodles and pickled carrots and daikon. It was of course delicious with a healthy dose of nuoc cham. The frog legs were over done and too salty. An avid salt fanatic (sorry Mark) the phrase “too salty” is rarely used, but in this case the saltiness overwhelmed the usually delicate meat of the frog.

The papaya salad with beef jerky was actually papaya salad with shrimp. Somehow in the process of ordering the waiter got the order wrong, even when I had pointed to the picture indicating a papaya salad with beef jerky. In any event, the shrimp added nothing and looked very plastic. The papaya was uninteresting and crunchy. When soaked and drowned in nuoc cham, it was made edible.

The avocado smoothie was also uninteresting, tasting mostly like watermelon juice. It was slightly creamy, but also incredibly watery. It was not what I was expecting or, in the end, liked.

The pho was respectable. It had the right flavors but lacked the punch that true pho has. The pho was made better with the herbs, bean sprouts and a squeeze of lime. Adding chili sauce would have given it a little kick, but it was not a necessity.

For ten dishes and $50, we had a perfectly mediocre Vietnamese meal. I would really only recommend getting the bun and/or pho.

*nuoc cham is a fish sauce which the Vietnamese use for and in everything. It is comparable to the US obsession with ketchup.

Pho So 1 Rating: 2/5 chopsticks

Pho So 1 Rating: 2/5 chopsticks